We set out as a group of 8 to explore Champener, starting at the south gate of the citadel and visiting several of the former mosques. They were exceptional architectural structures, with no colour or life, but lovely proportions.
They proved a stunning contrast to the adjacent Pavagadh, which is an important contemporary Hindu shrine to Kalikamata atop a mountain that attracts thousands of pilgrims. We made our way to the shrine in a constant colourfull flow of people via a combination of jeep taxi, cable-car, and stairs. Most of the pilgrims walked at least the last half of the way up the mountain, rather than taking the cable-car. Along most of that route, there were stalls selling gifts to present at the shrine, special clothes to wear, toys, food, and much more. This shrine is both busier and more commercialized than Lourdes.
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